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Rather than returning to town for breakfast, like the majority of the dawn crowds, we scarfed down our picnic and went on in to the temple building itself. Angkor Wat is monumental. In comparison to so many other temples in the area, it’s in very good condition, so oddly enough the hallways can seem a little echoey and austere, rather than atmospheric. The architectural achievement stands very tall and proud, nevertheless, with those iconically shaped towers rising over the vast, richly green, parklands. It’s a remarkable place, especially when the crowds are down to a minimum.

Seeing the sun rise at Angkor Wat is one of those “Things You Must Do”, and so we obediently got up at 4:30 and made our way there. Heading off to the edge of the site, we did get some wonderful views of the temple against the skyline, but the main parts of the grounds were absolutely packed, so the initial impression was less one of the majesty of human cultural achievement, and more of endless LCD camera screens, bobbing like fireflies on the horizon.

The floating village of Kompong Pluk, built on stilts in the mangrove forests on the edge of Tonlé Sap lake. Colourful houses stretch down “streets,” with their canoes and fishing boats parked up below, the kids splashing all around. We were there on a Sunday, but the school run (the building on the bottom right) must be a sight to behold.

We took a long, winding boat ride down the river towards Tonlé Sap. On the one hand, marginal cost doesn’t appear to be a resonant concept, as you pay not per boat, but per person on the boat. And it was a long and winding trip on possibly the slowest boat on the river. But in addition to the marvellous floating village (stay tuned), locals deliver $1 beers to your boat, Sam got a swim, and the sunset was spectacular. Not a bad way to spend an evening.