Seeing the sun rise at Angkor Wat is one of those “Things You Must Do”, and so we obediently got up at 4:30 and made our way there. Heading off to the edge of the site, we did get some wonderful views of the temple against the skyline, but the main parts of the grounds were absolutely packed, so the initial impression was less one of the majesty of human cultural achievement, and more of endless LCD camera screens, bobbing like fireflies on the horizon.