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Try the adventurous menu, they said. A more in-depth look at Laotian cuisine, they promised, with hard-to-find dishes.

We possibly should have read between the lines more, because what we ended up with was a platter of dung beetles, rice grubs, and super fiery chili pastes.

Still, there was also a rather good smoked aubergine dip, an interesting barbecued stuffed frog, and great sweet pickled tamarind. And the cocktail was excellent.