I wouldn’t say you go to Fenghuang for the food, exactly (bizarrely, it seems most Chinese tourists go for the clubbing). But there were plenty of interesting eats on offer: small stalls frying up food on demand, chilies befitting Hunan’s spicy reputation, a startling variety of dried animals, a preponderance of dehydrated kiwi (why?), omnipresent sugared nuts being pounded into a candy, and dinner features still on the hoof/claw/paw/webbed foot.