When the armistice ended (suspended?) the Korean War in 1953, the village of Panmunjom found itself right on the military demarcation line in the middle of the Demilitarized Zone. Accordingly it was cleared out and now plays host to the Joint Security Area and its conference huts that straddle the border. If Susan looks a little serious in her photo, it’s because she’s in North Korea at that point, and it doesn’t seem a fun place to be for long. The only obvious human connection of any kind with the northern side was the solitary guard who gave our tour