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Koya is a mountaintop town a few hours away (by train) from Osaka. Founded in 819 by a Buddhist monk, the town has dozens of temples and monasteries. At one end of town is Okunoin, a vast cemetery with more than 200,000 monuments erected over the last thousand or so years. The monuments line a pilgrimage route that winds up through a soaring forest of Japanese cedar trees. It’s all very atmospheric, with a bit of an Indiana Jones/Tomb Raider feel.

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