>  Trip 2023   >  Far Away from Far Away

Getting to the tip of Newfoundland’s northern peninsula is not for the faint of heart. Suppose you start in Halifax (already further east than 99.5% of North America’s population). You first have to drive 4-and-a-half hours to the far end of Cape Breton. Then you need to catch a 7-hour ferry to the south-western corner of Newfoundland. Once you are off the boat, you have a further seven-and-a-half hour drive, not including stops. But that is assuming you can drive at speed the whole time, which you probably can’t: it’s a single-lane in each direction most of the way. Once you arrive at your destination, you’re on the end of a peninsula, so the only way out is to retrace your steps for about five hours, until you reach the bustling metropolis of Deer Lake (population < 5,000). From there, you can be in St. John’s in only 6.5 more hours of driving.

All to say: we have covered a lot of ground, with a lot of driving, these last few days. But that isolation is the very point of the visit. This is a place where the remains of 1000-year old viking longhouses have survived, and whales frolic amongst icebergs. We have arrived at the end of the world, and it is beautiful.

A tranquil evening on the Big Bras d’Or lake in Baddeck on the first leg of our journey.
Looking out from the deck of MV Highlanders on a sunny crossing.
Boys watching our arrival into Port aux Basques
Port au Basques
The Viking Trail, highway 430, takes you out to the northernmost tip of the northern peninsula
On the upside: you don’t have to battle heavy traffic.

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